Anti-Aging in the Digital Era: Part I

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By Elena Allbritton, MD, FAAD

Aging is a universal biological process, but how we age has changed dramatically in the modern world. From AI-powered skincare apps to laser resurfacing technology that was unimaginable two decades ago, patients today have more tools at their disposal than ever before. At the same time, new digital-era stressors like screen time, blue light exposure, and poor sleep hygiene are accelerating certain aspects of skin aging. This guide offers an evidence-based overview of what we know, what works, and how to build a comprehensive anti-aging strategy.

Understanding Skin Aging: The Science Behind the Process

Skin aging occurs through two overlapping mechanisms: intrinsic (chronological) aging and extrinsic aging driven by environmental exposures. Intrinsic aging is genetically programmed and involves the gradual decline of collagen and slower cellular turnover. Extrinsic aging accounts for most of the visible facial aging and is primarily driven by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, known as photoaging.

A landmark study published in the Clinics in Dermatology (2012) estimated that UV exposure accounts for up to 80% of visible facial aging signs. Additional culprits include air pollution, infrared radiation, and high-energy visible (HEV) light commonly emitted by digital screens (Nakamura et al., 2015, Journal of Investigative Dermatology).

At the cellular level, aging skin is characterized by shortened telomeres and mitochondrial dysfunction.

Understanding these mechanisms helps explain why multi-modal anti-aging strategies tend to outperform any single-ingredient or single-treatment approach.

Evidence-Based Skincare Ingredients for Anti-Aging

The cosmeceutical market is flooded with products promising dramatic results, but only a handful of active ingredients have robust clinical evidence supporting their efficacy. Here is what science says about the most important ones.

Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives)

Topical retinoids remain the gold standard in evidence-based anti-aging skincare. Tretinoin (retinoic acid), a prescription-strength retinoid, has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce the appearance of fine lines and rough texture. Retinoids are known to cause transient mild irritation, including redness and dryness. Over-the-counter retinol offers a lower-potency alternative with a more tolerable side effect profile for some individuals.

Antioxidants: Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and Resveratrol

Topical antioxidants neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, pollution, and HEV lights, making them particularly relevant in the digital era. L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) at concentrations of 10-20% has been shown to boost collagen synthesis and provide photoprotection when applied beneath sunscreen (Pinnell at al., 2001 Dermatology Surgery). Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) addresses multiple aging endpoints, including barrier function and hyperpigmentation, with a well-documented tolerability profile. Resveratrol and other plant-derived polyphenols show promising preclinical data for activating sirtuin pathways linked to cellular longevity.

Peptides and Growth Factors

Signal peptides such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) are a viable complement to retinoid-based regimens, particularly for patients who cannot tolerate retinoids. Growth factor formulations derived from human fibroblast-conditioned media or plant stem cells are also gaining traction, though regulatory inconsistencies mean that independent clinical validation varies significantly by product.

Sunscreen: The Non-Negotiable Foundation

No anti-aging regimen is complete without daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen. Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium oxide) have additional relevance against HEV/visible light, which can be important for patients prone to melasma.

In-Office Procedures: What Technology Offers

For patients seeking more significant or faster results than topical agents can provide, a range of evidence-backed in-office treatments are available. The appropriate treatment or combination of treatments depends on an individual’s skin type, concerns, downtime tolerance, and budget.

Neuromodulators (Botulinum Toxin)

Botulinum toxin type A (commercially available as Botox, Dysport, and Xeomin) remains one of the most studied and widely administered aesthetic interventions. Meta-analyses consistently support their safety and efficacy when administered by trained physicians/providers.

Dermal Fillers

Hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers address volume loss, a primary driver of the hollow, aged appearance that develops in the mid-face, temples, and perioral area. HA is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan, well-tolerated and reversible with hyaluronidase. Biostimulatory fillers such as poly-L-lactic acid (Sculptra) and calcium hydroxyapatite (Radiesse) offer a different mechanism for gradual, longer-lasting volumization.

Laser and Energy-Based Devices

Laser resurfacing – both ablative (CO2, Er:YAG) and non-ablative (Fraxel, Nd:YAG, Clear and Brilliant, IPL) – target the epidermis and dermis to stimulate collagen remodeling, improve texture, reduce dyspigmentation, and address vascular lesions. Fractional photothermolysis enables faster healing compared to fully ablative lasers, which can require 2+ weeks of recovery. Energy-based devices, including radiofrequency (Thermage, Morpheus8, Infini/Genius RF) and focused ultrasound (Ultherapy, Sofwave), stimulate collagen and elastic production and are particularly effective for early skin laxity and tissue “lifting.” A growing body of literature supports combination protocols in a single treatment session.

Chemical Peels and Microneedling

Chemical peels using trichloroacetic acid (TCA), glycolic acid, or phenol stimulate rejuvenation. Medium-depth TCA peels (20-35%) improve photodamage, fine lines, and keratoses. Microneedling with radiofrequency (RF microneedling) is a versatile treatment for textural irregularities, enlarged pores, and mild laxity, particularly in patients with darker skin phototypes, where the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with lasers is higher.

Aging well isn’t about chasing a single solution—it’s about combining proven skincare, sun protection, and thoughtfully selected treatments to support your skin over time. With so many options available, a personalized, evidence-based approach remains key to achieving natural, long-lasting results. In Part Two, we’ll explore how lifestyle optimization—including sleep, nutrition, stress management, and daily habits—plays a powerful role in how your skin ages from the inside out.

Can a DNA Test Tell What Skincare You Need?

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by Dr. Koji Ota

There has been an increase in the availability and popularity of DNA tests aimed to provide personalized insight into one’s health, including one’s skin. This post is an introduction to what a DNA test can and cannot tell you about your skin and how you can incorporate information obtained from these tests to help you build a personalized skincare routine.

DNA Results

A DNA test can reveal insights into some genetic predispositions that may influence your skin. For instance, variants in the filaggrin (FLG) gene can indicate skin barrier dysfunction that leads to more eczema-prone skin. MC1R variants affect skin and hair pigmentation, which affects UV sensitivity and even skin cancer risks. DNA tests can also test for genes thought to play a role in skin aging, skin structure, and antioxidant defenses, providing some insight into an individual’s skin characteristics.

However, information obtained from a genetic test alone is not enough to determine a person’s skincare needs. It does not take into account other factors which can be just as, if not more important, than information obtained from a genetic test.

Other Factors to Consider

External factors such as the environment (UV, humidity) or behavior (smoking, topical regimens) greatly impact your skin. For example, people who live in a dry, cold climate will need to focus on maintaining a healthy skin barrier through proper moisturization. There are many factors that play a role in various skin conditions, such as the skin microbiome in acne and rosacea.

Additionally, DNA tests offer skin care suggestions with limited regulation and clinical validation. A recent study showed that genetic tests may lead to high false positive rates, as well as misclassification of common benign genetic variants as “high risk.”

So how can you incorporate these DNA tests into your skin care regimen?

One can use these tests as a data point: if you have an MC1R gene variant that conveys a higher risk of UV damage, you may want to prioritize sun protection.

However, genetic testing is not meant to be a standalone guideline. A true personalized skin care routine will take your lifestyle and environment into account. A board-certified dermatologist can incorporate all these data points to help you come up with a safe and effective skincare routine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

References

Palmer CNA, Irvine AD, Terron-Kwiatkowski A, et al. Common loss-of-function variants of the epidermal barrier protein filaggrin are a major predisposing factor for atopic dermatitis. Nat Genet. 2006;38(4):441–446. doi:10.1038/ng1767

Sturm RA. Molecular genetics of human pigmentation diversity. Hum Mol Genet. 2009;18(R1):R9–R17. doi:10.1093/hmg/ddp006 (discussion of MC1R and UV sensitivity/pigmentation)

Rittié L, Fisher GJ. UV-light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. Ageing Res Rev. 2002;1(4):705–720. doi:10.1016/S1568-1637(02)00045-6 (collagen, MMPs, photoaging)

Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2003;17(6):663–669. doi:10.1046/j.1468-3083.2003.00867.x (oxidative stress, antioxidant defense genes)

Grice EA, Segre JA. The skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2011;9(4):244–253. doi:10.1038/nrmicro2537 (role of microbiome in acne, barrier/skin health)

Manolio TA, Collins FS, Cox NJ, et al. Finding the missing heritability of complex diseases. Nature. 2009;461(7265):747–753. doi:10.1038/nature08494 (small effect sizes of common variants; relevance to polygenic traits)

Duffy DC, Ritchie H, Beecham R. Direct-to-consumer genetic testing: a systematic review of health-related information accuracy and implications. J Med Genet. 2018;55(9):610–616. doi:10.1136/jmedgenet-2017-104740 (limitations and variable clinical validity of DTC tests)

Ethical concerns of direct-to-consumer genetic testing.  Ferreira, Alana et al. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 90, Issue 5, 1117 – 1118

How Stress and Sleep Disruption Show Up on Your Skin

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As the holiday season comes to a close and the new year begins, life can feel more hectic than ever, and your skin is often the first casualty. Scientific research has repeatedly confirmed what many of us feel intuitively: stress and poor sleep directly impact your skin’s appearance, function, and ability to heal. Let’s break down how stress and sleep disruption show up on your skin, and what you can do to ameliorate these effects.

Stress Weakens the Skin Barrier and Triggers Inflammation

The skin barrier is your body’s frontline defense, keeping moisture in and irritants out. But the skin is not just a passive barrier; it has an active role in your body’s response to stress. The skin both responds to and produces stress-related molecules that influence inflammation. When under stress, your body activates the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, raising cortisol levels, our primary stress hormone. Chronic elevation in cortisol levels has been shown to reduce the production of key lipids in the skin, slow cellular turnover, and increase inflammation, all of which can lead to:

  • Dryness and flaking
  • Increased sensitivity
  • Burning or stinging
  • Exacerbations of conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea

Stress Worsens Breakouts

As we have reviewed, stress amplifies inflammatory pathways in the skin, which can cause new breakouts to appear. Furthermore, the higher cortisol levels caused by stress increase production of sebum, or oil, clogging pores and exacerbating acne.

Stress Accelerates Visible Aging

Continued exposure to high levels of cortisol induces the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin associated with the biologic hallmarks of aging. Chronic stress can also lead to a reduction of hyaluronic acid production, resulting in dehydration and thinning of the skin. This can present as more noticeable fine lines, loss of firmness, and a dull, uneven skin tone.

Loss of Sleep Leads to Increased Inflammation and Impaired Skin Repair

While you sleep, your skin enters “recovery mode” and engages in regeneration and repair, guided by your circadian rhythm. At night, your skin increases cell turnover, DNA repair, and moisture balance. Sleep loss may influence skin regeneration through changes in circadian-regulated processes and hormonal shifts. When sleep is disrupted, this can lead to the accumulation of DNA damage, reduction in barrier oils, decreased skin hydration, and increased inflammation. Poor sleepers (less than five hours of sleep per night) have been found to have greater water loss through the skin, indicating an effect on barrier function. Alternatively, good sleepers (7-9 hours of sleep per night) have been found to recover from skin damage 30% better than poor sleepers.

How to Protect Your Skin from Stress & Sleep Disruption

Manage Stress Through Small, Realistic Steps

Expecting someone to completely remove stress from their life is neither practical nor achievable, but there are a few obtainable additions to your schedule that can help combat everyday stress:

  • 10-minute walks
  • Breathing exercises
  • Mindfulness or meditation
  • Limiting screen exposure before bed

Prioritize Consistent Sleep

Sleeping 7-9 hours per night allows your skin the recovery time it needs. Maintaining a consistent sleep schedule by going to bed and waking up at a similar time every day can benefit your circadian rhythm. You can improve your sleep pattern with these simple tips:

  • Avoid screens 60-90 minutes before bed.
  • Create a “Wind-Down” Routine, such as reading, stretching, or journaling.
  • Avoid caffeine 8 hours prior to bedtime.
  • Support sleep during the day with regular exercise.

Build a Stress-Friendly Skincare Routine

When stress is already impacting the skin, skincare should support recovery rather than contribute to the strain. These tips can help maintain a stress-free routine:

  • Use a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser. Fragrant products may contain chemicals that can trigger inflammation and alter your skin’s pH.
  • Support your skin barrier with a ceramide-rich moisturizer to increase skin hydration. A strong skin barrier helps reduce inflammation, sensitivity, and premature aging.
  • Avoid frequent product switching to allow your skin to adapt.
  • Daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ mineral sunscreen helps guard against external stressors and slow the development of visible aging.

Final Thoughts

Your skin is a mirror of your overall well-being. When stress rises, and sleep falls, your complexion feels and shows the effects. But with the right strategies, you can protect your skin and maintain its healthy glow. If the stress in your life is starting to show, consult with a dermatologist to restore your skin to its happiest, healthiest self.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

References

  1. Altemus M, Rao B, Dhabhar FS, Ding W, Granstein RD. Stress-induced changes in skin barrier function in healthy women. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2001;117(2):309-317. doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2001.01373.x
  2. Arck PC, Slominski A, Theoharides TC, Peters EMJ, Paus R. Neuroimmunology of stress: Skin takes center stage. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2006;126(8):1697-1704. doi:10.1038/sj.jid.5700104
  3. Duarte M, Pedrosa SS, Khusial PR, Madureira AR. Exploring the interplay between stress mediators and skin microbiota in shaping age-related hallmarks: A Review. Mechanisms of Ageing and Development. 2024;220:111956. doi:10.1016/j.mad.2024.111956
  4. Oyetakin-White P, Suggs A, Koo B, et al. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. 2014;40(1):17-22. doi:10.1111/ced.12455
  5. Xerfan EM, Andersen ML, Facina AS, Tufik S, Tomimori J. Sleep loss and the skin: Possible effects of this stressful state on cutaneous regeneration during nocturnal dermatological treatment and related pathways. Dermatologic Therapy. 2021;35(2). doi:10.1111/dth.15226

Eco-Friendly Skin Care: What Does ‘Clean’ Really Mean?

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By: Caroline Glick, PA-C, MPH

Skin care products can be confusing. Labels such as ‘organic,’ ‘vegan,’ ‘cruelty-free,’ ‘hypoallergenic,’ ‘fragrance-free,’ ‘eco-friendly,’ and ‘clean’ are all common marketing tools. But the lack of standardization within the skin care industry makes it difficult for shoppers to know exactly what they are buying.

There can be discrepancies between marketing claims and the actual ingredients in a product. For example, one study examining the top 100 body moisturizers sold at three major retailers in the United States found that 45% of the moisturizers labeled as ‘fragrance-free’ actually had botanical fragrance ingredients (Wang et al., 2025). Botanical fragrance ingredients can potentially cause an allergic reaction on the skin. ‘Fragrance-free’ and ‘unscented’ are terms often used interchangeably. However, ‘unscented’ products can have fragrance-masking chemicals to neutralize fragrance.

Similarly, the term ‘natural’ may evoke feelings of non-toxicity, but a study showed that 121 cosmetic ingredients marketed as ‘natural’ can actually be associated with possible adverse skin reactions, such as allergic contact dermatitis (Wang et al., 2025).

Another problem is that many of these labels are unregulated marketing terms. There is no official certification for ‘clean’ skin care. ‘Clean’ skin care products are defined by the brand or manufacturer of a skin care product. They choose what products are considered ‘clean’ based on the ingredients used.

Other terms, including ‘organic,’ ‘vegan,’ ‘cruelty-free,’ ‘hypoallergenic,’ and ‘eco-friendly,’ can be similarly confusing.

‘Organic’ skin care products are certified by the USDA or private certifying organizations, but those organizations use different standards and definitions for the term. It is not uniform across the board.

‘Vegan’ skin care is made without animal products. Private organizations certify ‘vegan’ products, but they depend on brands to accurately report the ingredients they use.

‘Cruelty-free’ brands do not participate in animal testing when developing their products. However, definitions of ‘cruelty-free’ vary. For example, a final product may not be tested on animals, but the individual ingredients within the product may potentially have been tested on animals.

‘Hypoallergenic’ is defined as a product that is less likely to cause allergic reactions. However, there is no standard criteria for ‘hypoallergenic.’ In fact, 83% of top-selling products labeled as ‘hypoallergenic’ had at least one known allergen from the standard allergen series of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group (Wang et al., 2025).

‘Eco-friendly’ skin care is supposed to minimize harm to the environment. ‘Eco-friendly’ skin care generally emphasizes reducing waste, supporting ethical sourcing, and creating formulas that are biodegradable and non-toxic. Many ‘eco-friendly’ brands use minimal packaging or recyclable packaging. However, like many of these marketing terms, these ‘eco-friendly’ products are defined by the brand or manufacturer.

The terms ‘vegan,’ ‘organic,’ ‘cruelty-free,’ ‘hypoallergenic,’ ‘fragrance-free,’ ‘eco-friendly,’ and ‘clean’ often evoke images of pure, untainted products with no harmful chemicals or synthetic ingredients. However, the classification of these products can vary significantly between brands and even within the industry itself.

Reliable resources to help shoppers navigate the confusing marketing landscape of skin care products include the Cosmetic Ingredient Review or Contact Dermatitis Institute Allergen Database (Urban et al., 2022). Please schedule an appointment with your board-certified dermatologic provider for any questions you may have. We are able to create a personalized recommendation of products that are best for your specific skin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sources

Cabana, E. (2020, September 10). Skincare ingredients: What does “clean” mean? Aesthetic Authority, 1(3). https://www.dermatologytimes.com/view/skincare-ingredients-what-does-clean-mean

ElBoghdady, D. (2020, March 11). ‘Clean’ beauty has taken over the cosmetics industry, but that’s about all anyone agrees on. The Washington Post. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/wellness/clean-beauty-has-taken-over-the-cosmetics-industry-but-thats-about-all-anyone-agrees-on/2020/03/09/2ecfe10e-59b3-11ea-ab68-101ecfec2532_story.html 

Gillette, H. (2025, April 8). The Truth Behind ‘Clean Beauty’ and Skin Health. Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/the-truth-behind-clean-beauty-and-skin-health

Rubin, C. B., & Brod, B. (2019). Natural does not mean safe—the dirt on clean beauty products. JAMA Dermatology, 155(12), 1344–1345. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/fullarticle/2751513

Urban, K., Giesey, R. L., & Delost, G. R. (2022). A guide to informed skincare: The meaning of clean, natural, organic, vegan, and cruelty-free. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 21(9), 1012. https://jddonline.com/articles/a-guide-to-informed-skincare-the-meaning-of-clean-natural-organic-vegan-and-cruelty-free-S1545961622P1012X

Wang, O. J. (Emilie), Shojaei, D., & Liu, C. (2025, July 14). “Clean Beauty” in Dermatology: A scoping review. Practical Dermatology. https://practicaldermatology.com/issues/july-2025/clean-beauty/36492/

A Dermatology Expert’s Guide to Safe At-Home LED Masks & Microcurrent Tools

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By Joan Pohutsky, DNP, NP-BC

At-home skincare technology is everywhere—from LED face masks to microcurrent “facelift” tools that promise glow, lift, and firmness. As dermatology providers, we want patients to feel empowered about their skin. But with so many gadgets on the market, using them safely and effectively is essential.

This guide breaks down what LED masks and microcurrent tools can (and can’t) do, how to choose a safe device, and when to talk with your dermatology provider.

What Are LED Masks?

LED (light-emitting diode) therapy uses specific wavelengths of light to target skin concerns without heat or skin damage.

Common wavelengths and their roles:
– Red light (630–660 nm): Helps boost collagen, reduce inflammation, and improve fine lines over time.
– Blue light (415 nm): Targets acne-causing bacteria and can help reduce breakouts.
– Near-infrared light (830–850 nm): Penetrates more deeply to support healing and overall skin rejuvenation.

Science-backed:
Studies show that FDA-cleared at-home LED masks can improve acne, texture, and mild signs of aging when they’re used consistently and correctly.

Important:
– Choose FDA-cleared devices.
– Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for time and frequency of use.
– Protect your eyes with built-in shields or goggles.

What Are Microcurrent Tools?

Microcurrent devices deliver low-level electrical currents through the skin to:
– Gently stimulate facial muscles
– Enhance circulation
– Support cellular energy (ATP), which may help skin function more efficiently

Early research suggests microcurrent tools may help improve:
– Skin tone and elasticity
– Mild facial contouring
– Overall firmness and a lifted appearance

However, results vary, and these devices should be viewed as supportive tools, not replacements for professional treatments.

Why People Love These Devices

– Convenience: Spa-style treatment at home, on your schedule
– No downtime: Gentle and non-invasive
– Tech appeal: Great for people who enjoy smart skincare and gadgets

The Science in Brief

LED masks:
When FDA-cleared and used as directed, LED therapy is generally safe and can help with:
– Acne
– Redness and inflammation
– Fine lines and mild texture issues

Microcurrent tools:
Evidence is promising for better tone and subtle contouring, but research is still developing. Think of these as adjuncts to—not substitutes for—professional care and a solid skincare routine.

How to Choose a Safe Device

LED Masks: Look For

– FDA clearance for home use
– Clearly listed wavelengths (e.g., 630 nm red, 415 nm blue)
– Built-in eye protection or the option to use separate goggles
– Assurance of no UV light and no significant heat emission

Microcurrent Tools: Look For

– Transparent safety information and certifications
– Adjustable intensity levels so you can start low and increase as tolerated
– Clear instructions and guidance for home users

Avoid microcurrent tools or talk to your medical provider first if you have:

– A pacemaker or other implanted electronic device
– A history of epilepsy or seizures
– You are pregnant, unless specifically cleared by your obstetric and dermatology providers

Safe Use Tips from Your Dermatology Team

LED Masks

1. Start with clean, dry skin.
2. Use protective goggles if your mask doesn’t fully shield your eyes.
3. Follow the device’s instructions—typically 10–20 minutes, 3–5 times per week.
4. Stop use if you feel pain, heat, or discomfort.
5. Be patient and consistent—visible results often take 6–8 weeks.

Microcurrent Devices

1. Apply a conductive gel before using the device to help the current pass safely and comfortably.
2. Start with the lowest setting; you may feel a mild tingle, but it should not be painful.
3. Use for about 5–10 minutes, 2–3 times per week, or as directed.
4. Avoid:

– Broken, irritated, or infected skin
– Areas with active skin conditions, unless cleared by your provider
– Use if you have medical contraindications

Who Benefits Most?

Good candidates include people with:

– Mild skin aging (fine lines, early laxity)
– Texture issues or dullness
– Acne-prone skin in maintenance mode (especially with blue or combination LED)

These devices are usually not ideal for:

– Severe laxity or sagging
– Deep wrinkles
– Melasma (some light-based devices can worsen pigment issues)
– Anyone unwilling to use proper eye protection, follow instructions, or apply sunscreen regularly

Common Mistakes to Avoid

– Buying cheap, uncertified devices from unverified sellers
– Expecting instant or dramatic results
– Ignoring medical contraindications (e.g., pacemakers, seizure disorders)
– Skipping daily sunscreen, which undermines any anti-aging benefit
– Using devices on irritated, inflamed, or sunburned skin

When to Consult a Dermatology Professional

At-home LED masks and microcurrent tools can be helpful additions to your skincare routine, but they work best when:

– You’re using the right device for your skin type and concerns
– You understand realistic goals and limitations
– They’re integrated with professional treatments and medical-grade skincare when appropriate

Next step:

Schedule a consultation with us to:
– Review your current skincare routine and how it impacts your skin health
– Decide whether an LED mask or microcurrent device makes sense for you
– Build a customized plan that keeps your skin healthy and radiant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

References

Ablon, G. (2018). Phototherapy with light emitting diodes: Treating a broad range of medical and aesthetic conditions in dermatology. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(2), 21–27. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5843358/

American Academy of Dermatology Association. (2024, September 13). Is red light therapy right for your skin? https://www.aad.org/public/cosmetic/safety/red-light-therapy

Bu, P., Duan, R., Luo, J., Yang, T., Liu, N., & Wen, C. (2024). Development of home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation: Establishment of efficacy evaluation system. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 17, 553–563. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S449599

National Healthy Skin Month: What’s New in Skincare and Aesthetic Dermatology

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By Maral Kibarian Skelsey, MD, FAAD, FACMS

Every year, the American Academy of Dermatology designates November as Healthy Skin Month. It’s a good time to pay attention to your skin and adopt habits that lead to a lifetime of healthy skin.

But youthful skin is about more than just smoothness — it’s also about firmness, tone, evenness, hydration, and overall skin quality. As dermatologists, we’re moving beyond simply relaxing facial muscles or filling lines. Today’s most effective anti-aging approaches work at the cellular and structural levels of the skin, helping it function — not just look — younger.

Let’s take a look at what’s new, what’s proven, and how modern dermatology is redefining the science of healthy aging.

Anti-Aging Skin Care Ingredients that Make a Difference

  1. Peptides: The Skin’s Tiny Communicators

One category of product you may have read about is peptides, which are short chains of amino acids—the building blocks of protein and collagen. In skincare, they act as messengers, signaling your skin to produce what’s missing.

New generations of signal peptides and carrier peptides help boost collagen production, support wound repair, and improve elasticity. Some even carry trace elements like copper that promote healing and firmness.

TO KNOW: Look for peptide creams whose formulations are backed by clinical testing, and remember that consistency matters more than concentration.

  1. Exosomes: The Next Frontier in Regenerative Dermatology

Exosomes are microscopic vesicles released by cells that help communicate and promote regeneration. In aesthetic dermatology, exosome-based treatments are emerging as powerful tools for collagen stimulation, skin rejuvenation, and healing after laser or microneedling procedures.

They’re not growth factors or stem cells themselves — but they help amplify the skin’s own repair signals, leading to improved tone, texture, and radiance.

While still relatively new, early studies show promising results, particularly when used under the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist.

  1. Biotech-Driven Ingredients: Lab-Grown Collagen and Advanced Actives

The cosmetic industry is harnessing biotechnology to create lab-grown versions of natural proteins, such as vegan collagen and bioidentical elastin. These ingredients can help mimic the structure of youthful skin — without animal sources — and are more sustainable to produce.

Other biotech innovations include stabilized retinoids, new forms of niacinamide, and encapsulated vitamin C that deliver actives deeper with less irritation.

TO KNOW: If your skin has become inflamed with traditional retinol or acids, these new-generation actives can provide similar benefits with improved tolerability.

How To Maximize Results From Anti-Aging Skin Care Products

How you use your anti-aging skin care products affects your results.

To help you get the best results from these products, dermatologists offer these tips.

  1. Start with one product. Using several anti-aging products at the same time can irritate your skin. When you irritate your skin, signs of aging become more noticeable.
  2. Test the product before applying it to your face or hands. Even hypoallergenic products can cause a skin reaction. To test a product, apply a small amount to your inner forearm. Repeat this twice a day for four to five days. If your skin looks normal — free of redness, itch, and other reactions — you can apply it to your face and other skin.
  3. Stop using a product that stings, burns, or tingles. These sensations mean that the product irritates your skin. Irritated skin looks older. If you are using a product prescribed by your dermatologist, ask if this should be happening before you stop using it. Some prescription-strength products will burn or sting.
  4. Follow directions. Some products contain active ingredients that can cause problems if you apply more than directed. You could end up with clogged pores, blotchy skin, or excessively dry skin. Read the instructions, and use as directed.
  5. Give the product time to work. A moisturizer can plump up fine lines in a few days, but most products take at least six weeks to work. Sometimes it can take up to three months. Be patient and give the product time to work.
  6. Continue using if you want to continue seeing results. People often stop using a product once they see results.
  7. Protect your skin from the sun. Sun protection helps to reduce signs of premature aging on your skin. It also allows your skin to repair and renew itself and reduces your risk of getting skin cancer.
  8. Use moisturizer. Moisturizer traps water in your skin. This extra moisture can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and brighten your complexion.
  9. Forget about tanning. Tanning speeds up the signs of aging on your skin. Tanning can lead to premature wrinkles, age spots, and other unwanted signs of aging.

 

For a specific product recommendation, talk with us.

If you do not see the results you want after following these tips, you may want to talk to us. As board-certified dermatologists, we can examine your skin and discuss how to stay healthy!

Give us a call or book your appointment online.

The Scary Truth About Halloween: Rashes, Breakouts & How to Avoid Them

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With Halloween just around the corner, most of us are busy focusing on the fun of finding the perfect costume, planning spooky parties, and, of course, indulging in way too much candy, but the real fright might come after the trick or treating is over. From heavy costume makeup and sugar overload to adhesive-packed accessories and costume fabrics, Halloween festivities can wreak havoc on your skin. Breakouts, irritation, and skin reactions are just a few of the spooky surprises your skin might face. But don’t let the fear deter you from Halloween fun. With a few tips, you can keep your skin happy and healthy through the spooky season.

Here’s how to enjoy your Halloween festivities without letting your skin suffer the scary consequences:

Preventing Acne

The scariest thing about Halloween can be waking up with a breakout the next day. Costume makeup can be comedogenic, meaning it clogs your pores, leading to breakouts. The ingredients in these spooky makeups can be harsh on the skin as well, causing irritation and further putting your skin at risk. Here are some tips to help you rock your Halloween costume without the next-day consequences:

1. Choose Skin Friendly Costume Makeup

Not all costume makeup is created equal. Many products contain heavy oils or harsh chemicals that can clog pores, cause irritation, and trigger breakouts. Look at the ingredients in your makeup to help combat this spooky consequence. Opt for non-comedogenic, fragrance-free, and hypoallergenic makeup options. Additionally, choosing water-based makeup can help prevent breakouts from clogged pores, especially if your skin tends to be more oily.

2. Prep Your Skin

Preparing your skin prior to applying makeup can make a big difference. Start with a clean and moisturized face as your base. Application of a primer can create a barrier between your skin and potentially harmful makeup. This will also allow your makeup to go on more smoothly and last longer throughout the night!

3. Splurge for New Makeup

Although it can be tempting, do not use last year’s leftover Halloween makeup. Makeup that has been sitting open, hiding in the dark corners of your cabinet, has been in prime conditions for bacterial growth. Toss the old stuff and get new, clean makeup to help prevent breakouts.

4. Don’t Skip Your Nighttime Cleanse

Don’t forget to wash off the night before heading to bed! Using an oil-based cleanser can be beneficial in removing waterproof makeup and excess oil on the skin. Don’t forget to moisturize afterward to soothe and hydrate your skin.

5. Limit Sugar Intake

Foods and candies high in sugar can cause increased inflammation and oil production, contributing to skin breakouts. Fight these effects by enjoying your Halloween treats in moderation. Balance this consumption with plenty of water and skin-friendly foods rich in antioxidants, like berries, leafy greens, and nuts. Your dentist might thank you as well!

Preventing Contact Dermatitis

The only thing scarier than ghosts and goblins? Waking up after Halloween with an angry, itchy rash. This frightful reaction is often caused by Contact Dermatitis, a type of skin rash that occurs when your skin comes into contact with an allergen or irritant. There are two main types of contact dermatitis:

  • Allergic Contact Dermatitis: an immunologic reaction that is triggered by an allergen. These substances include metals, plants, medicines, cosmetics, and preservatives.
  • Irritant Contact Dermatitis: caused by a harsh substance that causes direct damage to the skin’s protective barrier. These irritants include acids, alkalis, solvents, and detergents.

Symptoms typically include a red, itchy rash with dry or scaly patches, and sometimes even blisters or bumps. This reaction is typically evident within several hours of contact with an irritant. Such a reaction caused by an allergen usually appears within 24-48 hours of exposure, but may develop as soon as 8 to 12 hours after contact or may be delayed as long as 4 to 7 days

Many Halloween products, such as costume makeup, face paint, masks, and accessories, can contain dyes, fragrances, and preservatives, leading to such reactions.

Here’s how to avoid a Halloween skin scare:

1. Utilize Patch Testing

After purchasing your new costume makeup or paint, perform a patch test by applying a small amount on a small area of the skin, such as your inner forearm, at least 24-48 hours before use (we recommend the inner aspect of your forearm). This area can then be monitored to see if there is a reaction to this new product. If you notice any irritation, redness, itching, or swelling, this new product is one to avoid.

2. Beware of Accessories

Fake eyelashes, prosthetics, fake nails, and glitter can help you complete the look of your dreams, but the adhesives used to keep them in place can be irritating to the skin. Opt for medical-grade or latex-free adhesives. Make sure to be gentle when removing these products and do not rip them off; rather, use a proper adhesive remover or warm compress to dissolve the glue safely. Nickel, a common allergen, is found in a large amount of costume jewelry. Be aware of this common metal and seek out accessories that are nickel-free.

3. Avoid Latex if You’re Sensitive

Many masks and prosthetics contain natural rubber latex, which is a common allergen for many. If you are sensitive, select a latex-free alternative to prevent a reaction.

4. Choose Costume Fabrics Wisely

Whether you are donning all black or your costume entails bright colors, many fabrics utilized for costumes contain heavy dyes that can irritate the skin. Additionally, many of these costume fabrics are composed of rough, synthetic materials that can further cause inflammation. Combat these effects by washing any new costume fabrics to remove any residue before wearing. Consider wearing a layer of clothing under your costume to provide a barrier to these irritating fabrics.

5. Clean Your Hands Often

Whether you are touching up your Halloween makeup or reaching into the candy bowl, our hands come into contact with a lot of potential sources of irritation. Anything your hands come into contact with can unknowingly be spread to the face and cause a reaction. Irritation of the eyelids is commonly caused by these contaminants transferred from your hands. Make sure to wash or sanitize your hands throughout the night to avoid spreading allergens to your face.

 

Halloween is all about having fun, dressing up, and eating way too many sweets, but your skin shouldn’t have to pay the price. With a few mindful choices and a good nighttime skin care routine, you can enjoy all the spooky fun without waking up to a skin nightmare. And if you do have any skin care frights, reach out to your local dermatologist to help restore your skin to its original glow.

Resources

  1. Commissioner, O. of the. (2022, November). Novelty Makeup. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/novelty-makeup
  2. Marks, J. G., & Miller, J. J. (n.d.). Eczematous Rashes. In Lookingbill and Marks’ Principles of Dermatology (6th ed.).
  3. Zirwas, M. J. (n.d.). Review of Contact dermatitis to cosmetics. Clinical Reviews in Allergy & Immunology. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30421329/.

Hormonal Acne as an Adult

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By Kyleen Davis, FNP

Let’s get one thing straight—acne isn’t just a teenage thing. Even though Hollywood would have us believe that breakouts magically disappear with high school, many women continue to deal with acne well into adulthood. And let’s be honest, it’s frustrating. It can feel like your skin is going backwards.

The culprit? Often, it’s hormones.

Hormonal acne is super common, especially for women, and it’s usually tied to shifts in hormones related to things like your menstrual cycle, perimenopause, or menopause. These changes can ramp up oil production and inflammation, leading to—you guessed it—breakouts.

You’ve probably tried the usual go-to treatments like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. And yes, they can work! But if your acne isn’t budging, there are newer, evidence-backed options worth considering.

Let’s walk through them:

Spironolactone

Spironolactone wasn’t originally made for acne—it’s actually a blood pressure medication. But it turns out it has anti-androgen properties, which means it helps block certain hormones that trigger acne.

Many women have seen big improvements (we’re talking 50% to 100% better).1 Side effects are usually mild—think dizziness, headaches, or changes in your period. Most young, healthy women don’t need frequent blood work monitoring on this medication, but if you’re older or have other health concerns, your provider may want to monitor your potassium and kidney function. It’s not safe during pregnancy and isn’t used in men.

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels aren’t just for glowing skin—they can actually help clear up acne. They exfoliate dead skin cells, unclog pores, calm inflammation, and even regulate oil production.

We offer an Acne Salicylic Wash Peel that specifically targets breakouts, reducing redness, swelling, and excess oil.

Niacinamide

You might’ve seen this ingredient pop up in serums and moisturizers—and for good reason. Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) helps reduce oil production, calms inflammation, strengthens the skin barrier, and even fights off free radicals that can worsen acne.

It’s gentle, effective, and works for most skin types.

Clascoterone: A Topical Anti-Androgen

This one’s relatively new and exciting. Clascoterone (brand name Winlevi) is a cream that works like a topical version of spironolactone—it blocks hormone receptors in your skin, helping to reduce oil and inflammation.

The best part? It’s topical, so you skip the systemic side effects of oral medications. It’s safe for both women and men, even teens 12 and up. The downside? It’s still pretty new, so cost and insurance coverage might be a hurdle for some.

Combined Oral Contraceptives

Certain birth control pills can also double as an acne treatment, especially if your breakouts seem to follow your menstrual cycle. They help regulate hormones that contribute to acne, and some even come with added benefits for women dealing with cycle irregularities.

Some types seem to work better for acne than others. Pills containing drospirenone or other low-androgenic progestins often show the best results.2

Light & Laser Therapy: A Non-Invasive Option

If you’d prefer to stay away from pills and creams, light therapy might be a good fit.

Red light therapy reduces inflammation, speeds up healing, and even helps fade post-acne marks. Blue light therapy, on the other hand, targets acne-causing bacteria directly and is a great option if you’re coming off antibiotics or want a non-drug approach.

We offer in-office blue light treatments, and while at-home devices are out there, they tend to be less powerful.

Quick breakdown:

Red Light:

  • Soothes inflammation
  • Boosts collagen
  • Helps with overall skin healing

Blue Light

  • Zaps acne-causing bacteria
  • Can help with precancerous skin issues too
  • Promotes smoother, clearer skin over time
What’s Next? New and Emerging Options

Researchers are working on even more targeted hormonal treatments, like selective androgen receptor modulators (SARMs). The field is moving toward more personalized approaches, combining both topical and systemic therapies to get the best results.

The Bottom Line

Dealing with hormonal acne as an adult isn’t just common—it’s totally normal. And thankfully, treatment options are getting better and more tailored every year.

If you’re feeling stuck with your current routine, let’s talk. There are plenty of new solutions out there, and we’re here to help you find what works best for your skin. Book a consultation and let’s get you on the path to clearer, more confident skin.

 

 

 

 

 

Resources

  1. American Academy of Dermatology. (2025). Stubborn acne? Hormonal therapy may help.https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/hormonal-therapy.
  2. Arrington, E. A., Patel, N. S., Gerancher, K., & Feldman, S. R. (2012). Combined oral contraceptives for the treatment of acne: A practical guide.Cutis, 90(2), 83–90.https://cdn.mdedge.com/files/s3fs-public/Document/September-2017/090020083.pdf
  3. Casey, F. E. (2023, January 11).Contraception and its impact on acne. Contemporary OB/GYN. https://www.contemporaryobgyn.net/view/contraception-acne
  4. Charny, J., Choi, J. & James, W. (2017). Spironolactone for the treatment of acne in women, a retrospective study of 110 patients. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, 13, 3(2), 111-115.
  5. Cleveland Clinic. (2024, September 19).Red light therapy: Benefits, side effects & uses.https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/22114-red-light-therapy
  6. Fioravanti, G., & Casale, S. (2021). Social media and body dissatisfaction in young adults: An experimental investigation of the effects of different image content and influencing constructs.Body Image, 38, 1–11.https://doi.org/10.1080/14656566.2021.1918100
  7. Hebebrand, M., & Del Rosso, J. Q. (2025, January 28).What’s new in the medicine chest: Acne vulgaris.Dermatology Times. https://www.dermatologytimes.com/view/what-s-new-in-the-medicine-cabinet-acne-vulgaris
  8. Hebert, A., Thiboutot, D., Stein Gold, L., Cartwright, M., Gerloni, M., Fragasso, E., & Mazzetti, A. (2020). Efficacy and safety of topical clascoterone cream, 1%, for treatment in patients with facial acne: Two phase 3 randomized clinical trials.JAMA Dermatology, 156(6), 621–630.https://doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2020.0465
  9. Lortscher, D., Admani, S., Satur, N., Eichenfield, L. Hormonal contraceptives and acne: a retrospective analysis of 2147 patients. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 15(6), 670-674.
  10. Macy, E., McCormick, T. A., Adams, J. L., Crawford, W. W., Nguyen, M. T., Hoang, L., Eng, V., Davis, A. C., & McGlynn, E. A. (2022). Association between removal of a warning against cephalosporin use in patients with penicillin allergy and antibiotic prescribing.JAMA, 327(3), 239–247.https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2021.24751
  11. Miller, K. D., Siegel, R. L., Lin, C. C., Mariotto, A. B., Kramer, J. L., Rowland, J. H., & Jemal, A. (2019). Discrepancy between perceived diet quality and actual diet quality among US adult cancer survivors.JAMA Oncology, 5(6), 845–847.https://doi.org/10.1001/jamaoncol.2019.0601
  12. Paller, A. S., Mendes-Bastos, P., Siegfried, E. C., Raymundo, A. F., Yang, H., Hu, X., Calimlim, B. M., Platt, M., Zheng, Y., Teixeira, H., Liu, J., & Eyerich, K. (2024). Upadacitinib in adolescents with moderate to severe atopic dermatitis: Analysis of 3 phase 3 randomized clinical trials through 76 weeks.JAMA Dermatology, 160(12), 1304–1313.https://doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2024.3696

Taking Control of Your Skin Care Routine

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By Koji Ota, MD

If you don’t have a daily skin care routine, it can feel overwhelming to start one. -There is a dizzying amount of information and recommendations, whether it be from skin care brands advertising their products or a TikTok influencer raving about the newest skin care hack. Contrary to some recommendations, you don’t need 12 steps or to break the bank to have an effective skin care routine. Here are some recommendations to get you started:

Basic Skin Care Routine

A basic skin care routine starts with a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

  • Cleanser is the important first step in a skin care regimen to clean the oil, dirt, sweat, make-up, and pollutants that accumulate on your skin throughout the day. This helps prevent clogged pores and breakouts, as well as prepare your skin for other skin care products to penetrate properly into your skin. Generally, you should select a gentle cleanser that will not overly strip your skin of moisture and oil that can lead to dryness and irritation.

Some cleansers can contain ingredients that address specific skincare problems, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to treat acne, or some with chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid that can help reveal a brighter complexion and correct an uneven skin tone. It’s important not to overuse these products as they can lead to irritation of the skin.

  • A facial moisturizer should be applied every day to keep your skin hydrated. Dry skin can lead to flaking, and redness, and make it more prone to irritation. A moisturizer should be selected based on your skin type. For anyone with dry skin, or during dry and colder months, a thicker, more hydrating moisturizer may be needed to keep your skin adequately hydrated.
  • Sunscreen is one of the most important steps in a skin care routine. Anytime you plan to be outside during the day, you should apply sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. This will protect your skin from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays which lead to accelerated skin aging and increased risk of skin cancer.

 

Next Steps

Once you have the basics down, you can consider adding more products that contain active ingredients to address your specific concerns. Next, we will review vitamin C and retinoids.

  • Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can protect the skin against environmental factors including sun damage and pollution. When used consistently, it can help reduce the appearance of dark spots on your skin, improve skin complexion, and help slow skin aging.

There are many formulations of vitamin C including creams and serums. Some formulations may cause irritation and lead to breakouts, so it’s important to select the products based on your specific skin type. Vitamin C should generally be applied in the morning, after cleansing and before sunscreen.

  • Retinoids are a group of Vitamin A-derived chemicals that have a wide range of uses in dermatology. They are one of the most effective types of products to improve acne, fine lines and wrinkles, even skin tone, and correct dark spots.

Retinoids can vary from over-the-counter retinols to prescription medications, most often prescribed to treat acne. They should generally be used at night, after cleansing and before application of moisturizers.

It is important to note that retinoids can be drying and irritating to the skin, so you should only apply a pea-sized amount to your whole face, and to start slow; for example I generally advise my patients to start using retinoids once every other day for a couple of weeks and increasing frequency to every night if you are not having irritation. One strategy that helps reduce the irritation of retinoids is to do a “moisturizer sandwich,” where you apply a layer of moisturizer before the retinoid, followed by another layer of moisturizer after the retinoid. Retinoids should not be used by anyone that is pregnant or is actively trying to conceive.

If you have any specific questions or concerns about building a skin care routine, or if you have a skin condition, talk to a dermatologist who can help you build a skin care routine that is tailored to your specific skin needs.

 

 

 

 

 

References

Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Jul;10(7):14-17. Epub 2017 Jul 1. PMID: 29104718; PMCID: PMC5605218.

Farris P. SUPPLEMENT ARTICLE: Retinol: The Ideal Retinoid for Cosmetic Solutions. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022 Jul 1;21(7):s4-s10. doi: 10.36849/JDD.SO722. PMID: 35816071.

Ludman, P. Dermatologist-recommended Skin Care for your 20s. American Academy of Dermatology. Accessed 2/16/2025. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/skin-care-in-your-20s

Skin Care In Your 40s and 50s. American Academy of Dermatology. Accessed 2/16/2025 https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/skin-care-in-your-40s-and-50s

How to Take Care of Your Lips

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By Joan Pohutsky DNP, NP-BC

Valentine’s Day is just around the corner- are your lips ready? This part of your face can be easily overlooked, yet they are one of the most sensitive areas of the face prone to dehydration, damage, and irritation. Dry, chapped, and cracked lips can leave you feeling less than confident, especially when you’re looking to flaunt your best pout.

But what makes them so vulnerable, and how do you properly care for your lips? With a few simple steps, you can ensure that your lips are soft, supple, and ready to shine for Valentine’s Day (and beyond).

Why Are Our Lips So Vulnerable?

Dry, chapped, red, sore, cracked lips, also known as cheilitis, can be exacerbated by:

Anatomical factors: Skin on the lips is thinner than the rest of the face and lacks sebaceous glands, which produce natural oils. This can quickly lead to epidermal barrier dysfunction.

Environmental factors: Extreme weather conditions, such as cold, windy, dry, or very sunny climates.

Allergies and Irritants: Sensitivities to lip products, food, toothpaste, and certain medications.

Stress: Psychological and emotional stress can lead to repetitive mechanical trauma, like lip licking or constant rubbing.

Other conditions: Actinic cheilitis, caused by sun damage, can lead to skin cancer if not treated. It can also, less commonly, be a result of nutritional deficiencies such as B12 or iron.

Treatment: Caring For Your Lips

Treating the underlying cause is important, as is following general guidelines including:

  1. Hydration

Drinking water is important for your overall health, but drinking more water alone will not improve cracked, dry lips. Look for products with the following:

Hyaluronic Acid, Honey, Ceramides, Vitamin E, Oils, Oils, Dimethicone, Petrolatum, or Shea Butter

Using a humidifier and regularly applying lip balm with active ingredients can help lock in moisture externally and provide protection.

  1. Gentle Exfoliation

Exfoliating your lips helps to remove dead skin cells, improving smoothness and preventing lips from looking rough and flaky. However, the thin and delicate skin on the lips makes gentle methods of exfoliation crucial so as not to impair your skin barrier – once or twice a week is usually enough. If your lips are particularly chapped, skip exfoliation until they heal! Exfoliating cracked lips can worsen irritation. Look for gentle lip scrubs that contain sugar, honey, or olive oils, then gently massage the scrub into your lips with small circular motions and rinse with lukewarm water.

  1. Avoid Trauma: Harsh Products and Lip Licking

The lips are a common location for contact dermatitis, a rash that manifests as inflammation, redness, itching, and discomfort. Contact dermatitis develops due to skin sensitivities or allergic reactions to certain ingredients in products used on or around the lips. Common culprits include:

Toothpaste and other products such as mouthwash, denture cleaner, and dental floss can contain fluoride, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and flavoring.

Citrus, Cinnamon, and other acidic foods

Metal in orthodontic devices and dental restoration

Medicines like neomycin and bacitracin

Fragrances and preservatives

It may feel like licking your lips is a quick fix for dryness, but it actually can worsen the problem. Enzymes in saliva can irritate the delicate skin on the lips and evaporate quickly, leaving your lips even drier than before. Instead of licking, use a soothing lip balm whenever your lips feel dry.

Choose a product free of potential irritants, especially those containing eucalyptus, camphor, flavoring, fragrance, lanolin, menthol, oxybenzone, phenol, propyl gallate, and salicylic acid.  Artificial fragrances, dyes, and alcohols can further dry out and irritate your lips.

Also, avoid long-wear and matte lip formulas if your lips are already feeling dry or cracked. These products often contain drying ingredients that exacerbate lip irritation. If you must wear a long-lasting lipstick, layer it over a nourishing lip balm to create a moisture barrier.

  1. Daily Sun Protection

Just like anywhere else on your body, your lips are vulnerable to the sun’s harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. Exposure to UV light can cause sunburn, premature aging, thinning of the lips, and increase the risk of skin cancer including basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma.

Protect your lips by using a mineral lip balm with SPF 30 or higher. Look for products with broad-spectrum coverage to protect against both UVA and UVB rays, containing zinc oxide or titanium oxide. Reapply regularly throughout the day, especially if you’re spending time outdoors, in the water, or perspiring, and consider sun-protective clothing like wide-brimmed hats.

  1. Diet and Lifestyle

Deficiencies in certain vitamins and minerals can lead to lip inflammation, which can be prevented by a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients such as:

Vitamin A, B Vitamins, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Iron, Zinc, Magnesium

Additionally, alcohol consumption should be limited due to its diuretic effects contributing to chapped, discolored lips. Don’t smoke, as it can break down collagen and elastin, decreasing volume and thus causing vertical wrinkles, or “smoker’s lines.”

Summary

Be sure your lips are part of your skincare routine by maintaining healthy habits like hydration and sun protection. Make an appointment to see us if you have any new or changing lesions on your lips or would like to discuss restoring your lips’ appearance with safe and effective procedures that yield natural-looking results.

 

Happy Valentine’s Day—here’s to love and healthy, happy lips!

 

 

 

Sources

American Academy of Dermatology. (n.d.). How to heal dry, chapped lips. American Academy of Dermatology. Retrieved December 30, 2024, from https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/heal-dry-chapped-lips

Devgan, L., & Singh, P. (2023) Clinical assessment of a topical ceramide and hyaluronic acid based lip treatment in perceived lip aesthetics. ResearchGate. Retrieved from https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Lara-Devgan/publication/381229429_Dr_Devgan_Platinum_Lip_Plump-_Clinical_assessment_of_a_topical_ceramide_and_hyaluronic_acid_based_lip_treatment_in_perceived_lip_aesthetics/links/6662a48bb769e769191d78e7/Dr-Devgan-Platinum-Lip-Plump-Clinical-assessment-of-a-topical-ceramide-and-hyaluronic-acid-based-lip-treatment-in-perceived-lip-aesthetics.pdf

Fonseca, Allene MDa,b; Jacob, Sharon E. MDc,d,e; Sindle, Allison MDf,*. Art of prevention: Practical interventions in lip-licking dermatitis. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology 6(5):p 377-380, December 2020. | DOI: 10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.06.001

Lugović-Mihić, L., Špiljak, B., Blagec, T., Delaš Aždajić, M., Franceschi, N., Gašić, A., & Parać, E. (2023). Factors Participating in the Occurrence of Inflammation of the Lips (Cheilitis) and Perioral Skin. Cosmetics, 10(1), 9. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010009

Park K. Role of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol Ther (Seoul). 2015 May;23(3):207-17. doi: 10.4062/biomolther.2015.003. Epub 2015 May 1. PMID: 25995818; PMCID: PMC4428712.

Shang J, Feng X, Chen Y, Gu Z, Liu Y. Human lip vermilion: Physiology and age-related changes. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024; 23: 2676-2680. doi:10.1111/jocd.16317